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Nicely done Mike!

It looks like the fuselage went together very straight. How did you accomplish such a uniform build?
I check all of the parts drawn on these old plans as I draft each and compare them back to the respective station points in both side and top views to make sure that the fuelage in this case remains fair and smooth in both the main side longerons and the upper or lower stringers. How did I do?

Hi Tom,

The fuselage went together quite nicely. At this smaller scale I prefer not to use "mechanical" jigs but instead to build "in-hand" continually fussing with it to make sure everything is straight and uniform. You can do this with a 60" model - you can't with 1/4 scale and up. So this is how I did it.

1. Cut the vertical side braces in pairs so you have EXACTLY the same length brace for each side.

2. Build the sides flat on the plans. I liked your suggestion of building the second side on top of the first after first laying a piece of wax paper between the two.

3. With the sides complete clamp the tail end together - but make sure you have a little freedom of movement so you can scrunch things around.

4. Next take formers 6 and 7 and fit them into place. I marked in pencil on the side of the fuse panels the locations of the formers. Use a thin rubber band to clamp the nose section and hold the formers in place.

5. Now fit former 1a at the tip of the fuselage letting your rubber band provide the clamping tension. You now have the basic geometry of the fuselage in hand so you can scrunch the parts around until you have perfect alignment.

6. When everything is perfectly aligned use CA to glue one former in place 6 and 6a is a good place to start. Eyeball your work again make sure everything is still uniform then move on to 7 and 7a. Then do the tip former 1a.

7. At this point you should still have your mechanical clamp on the tail. Do one last visual walk around to make sure everything is straight and then CA the tail together - but first make sure you've tapered the inside of the tail sides so you end up with a 1/8" cross section per the plans.

8. From here on out it goes together like a jigsaw puzzle. Great job Tom on the adaptation and Alex on the cutting.

Hi Tom,

I'm trying to strip 3/32" square balsa. Grrrrrrrr...

I'm torn about offering the long stock cut to length for the stringers, longerons, braces, etc.

I could make it work with 1/8"square but I want to keep it as close to original as possible.

Any suggestions on stripping/cutting 3/32" sq?

Mike, I've done it with the Master Airscrew stripper but have probably experienced the same thing you are - the knife tends to follow the harder grain at times making the fence wander and resulting in a wavy cut.

I would suggest leaving the blade partially up for the first cut and then lowering it to make the final cut.

I've also contmplated making my own jig, laser cut of course, with an extended fence or fixing the entire jig to the benchtop and passing the balsa through the cutter rather than passing the jig along the balsa.

I hope this helps.

What a great looking glider.I will clear my work bench and order on soon.Thank you Yohan

I have ordered a Thermic50 kit from you and was wondering if there are ant tips about electrifying it and adding the alavator to the stab.

Hey Bruce... Go to the build log section - there is a build log for an electric 70...

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