Free Newsletter

  • Click the image below tp subscribe to our free monthly newsletter - 24 pages of vintage beauties, builds, prints, plans, pin-ups, interviews, news and special deals.

Aerosente Build Logs

  • We have many build logs here on Aerosente. Several are always in process. Click the image below to see a list of our in process and completed build logs.

Richard Smith Interviews

  • Richard Smith is one of Frank's associates having worked for JASCO and contributed to his yearbooks. Below is an interview I conducted with Richard about his experiences working for JASCO and more specifically his relationship with Frank Zaic. Richard's account provides a fascinating look into Frank Zaic and the evolution of JASCO from a labor of love for Frank to a profitable enterprise run by his sister Christine. As Richard readily admits - these are his recollections - he doesn't claim to be the authoritative source on Frank Zaic. Just one mans account of what it was like to be around Frank back in the day...

The Tony Condon Project - Hall Cherokee II

  • Tony Condon is our Factory Rep for the Hall Cherokee II. He writes about all things Cherokee including photos, flight reports, a repository of known flying Cherokees, rebuilds, etc. Click below to read.

Comments

Feed You can follow this conversation by subscribing to the comment feed for this post.

Nicely done Mike!

It looks like the fuselage went together very straight. How did you accomplish such a uniform build?
I check all of the parts drawn on these old plans as I draft each and compare them back to the respective station points in both side and top views to make sure that the fuelage in this case remains fair and smooth in both the main side longerons and the upper or lower stringers. How did I do?

Hi Tom,

The fuselage went together quite nicely. At this smaller scale I prefer not to use "mechanical" jigs but instead to build "in-hand" continually fussing with it to make sure everything is straight and uniform. You can do this with a 60" model - you can't with 1/4 scale and up. So this is how I did it.

1. Cut the vertical side braces in pairs so you have EXACTLY the same length brace for each side.

2. Build the sides flat on the plans. I liked your suggestion of building the second side on top of the first after first laying a piece of wax paper between the two.

3. With the sides complete clamp the tail end together - but make sure you have a little freedom of movement so you can scrunch things around.

4. Next take formers 6 and 7 and fit them into place. I marked in pencil on the side of the fuse panels the locations of the formers. Use a thin rubber band to clamp the nose section and hold the formers in place.

5. Now fit former 1a at the tip of the fuselage letting your rubber band provide the clamping tension. You now have the basic geometry of the fuselage in hand so you can scrunch the parts around until you have perfect alignment.

6. When everything is perfectly aligned use CA to glue one former in place 6 and 6a is a good place to start. Eyeball your work again make sure everything is still uniform then move on to 7 and 7a. Then do the tip former 1a.

7. At this point you should still have your mechanical clamp on the tail. Do one last visual walk around to make sure everything is straight and then CA the tail together - but first make sure you've tapered the inside of the tail sides so you end up with a 1/8" cross section per the plans.

8. From here on out it goes together like a jigsaw puzzle. Great job Tom on the adaptation and Alex on the cutting.

Hi Tom,

I'm trying to strip 3/32" square balsa. Grrrrrrrr...

I'm torn about offering the long stock cut to length for the stringers, longerons, braces, etc.

I could make it work with 1/8"square but I want to keep it as close to original as possible.

Any suggestions on stripping/cutting 3/32" sq?

Mike, I've done it with the Master Airscrew stripper but have probably experienced the same thing you are - the knife tends to follow the harder grain at times making the fence wander and resulting in a wavy cut.

I would suggest leaving the blade partially up for the first cut and then lowering it to make the final cut.

I've also contmplated making my own jig, laser cut of course, with an extended fence or fixing the entire jig to the benchtop and passing the balsa through the cutter rather than passing the jig along the balsa.

I hope this helps.

What a great looking glider.I will clear my work bench and order on soon.Thank you Yohan

I have ordered a Thermic50 kit from you and was wondering if there are ant tips about electrifying it and adding the alavator to the stab.
Thanks,
Bruce.

Hey Bruce... Go to the build log section - there is a build log for an electric 70...

Verify your Comment

Previewing your Comment

This is only a preview. Your comment has not yet been posted.

Working...
Your comment could not be posted. Error type:
Your comment has been saved. Comments are moderated and will not appear until approved by the author. Post another comment

The letters and numbers you entered did not match the image. Please try again.

As a final step before posting your comment, enter the letters and numbers you see in the image below. This prevents automated programs from posting comments.

Having trouble reading this image? View an alternate.

Working...

Post a comment

Comments are moderated, and will not appear until the author has approved them.

Your Information

(Name is required. Email address will not be displayed with the comment.)

Chuck Gulls

  • The new V2 Chuck Gulls are now shipping. Click below for more details.

Flickr

  • Aerosente Photos (Photo Credits: Unless otherwise noted all scale photos are the work of Mark Nankivil)
    www.flickr.com
    Aerosente's items Go to Aerosente's photostream

Aerosente YouTube Channel

Aerosente Archive

Blog powered by Typepad
Member since 04/2004